It looks shabby but when it's all put together I think it will be fine. I had some other smaller cracking later which I epoxied in place.
Wooden runabout boat cracked#
My fix for the first crack was to epoxy and screw the crack together and move the cracked place to the stern where it would be straight. But I think after I got the first lamination in place I let too much time go by and the second one dried too straight. The towels and boiling water technique seemed to work, relaxing the wood and allowing both laminations to bend at the stem. I'm using Yellow Alaskan Cedar for the longitudinals. Sheers, in these plans, are the longitudinal pieces that form the upper edge of the hull. Sheer is usually defined as the curvature of the deck front to back. Not sure if they land at the right place on the stem but the notches in the plans seem to encourage the wood to land where it lands. The port chine didn't land on the stem with the right twist so I had to add a little beveled shim to make a flat landing place. There are designated pieces of wood that serve this purpose. The slightly different shape makes all the difference.Ĭhines are the lines that divide the "sides" of the boat from the "bottom". I finally saw the light and got a Fearson (Reed Prince) screwdriver and ordered the Fearson bits from Glen-L. I struggled for a while with the Fearson screw heads, trying to use Phillips drivers.
For screwing into the hard wood I had to predrill giant holes and wax the screws. Per instructions, I had ordered bronze screws.
For the frames I used Sipo, real nice hard wood, not quite as expensive as Honduran mahogany, but looking about the same. Frames are pieces that run the width of the boat and to which longitudinal pieces are attached.
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